This leaflet is designed to encourage you to think seriously about the responsibility and commitment (both personal and financial) of owning a horse. It isn't designed to put you off owning a horse - though it may seem that way! We wanted to provide this information which will give you a realistic view of what is really involved when you are responsible for a horse's care and well-being. We see too many horses cast aside like old socks because they take up time and money. It would help to reduce the amount of unwanted horses if people considered all aspects of horse ownership carefully before taking the plunge. If you have the commitment, the time, and the money, owning a horse is a joy! But with the good, of course, comes the bad. If you know about the bad, and you STILL want a horse, then it is right for you, and for any horse that you choose.

Remember: horses have their own language and they are PREY ANIMALS. Therefore, pretty much everything they do is motivated by a fear response, fight or flight! Keep that firmly in your mind when you are around your horse, or any other horse, and you will go a long way to understanding their language. PLEASE SEE NATURAL HORSEMANSHIP LINKS ON THE LINKS LIST FOR BRILLIANT INFORMATION ON HOW TO UNDERSTAND YOUR HORSE, HOW TO HAVE A BETTER RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR HORSE AND NATURAL TRAINING METHODS

How much does it cost to keep a horse?

Livery:

Where are you going to keep your horse? There are numerous livery yards around the UK, where you can rent a stable, usually including grazing in the cost. (Or you can choose 'grass livery' only. But if you choose this option, make sure you choose a hardy native type horse/ pony that will be used to living outside in all weathers) There are some livery yards that have a 'no winter turnout' policy. Last Angel doesn't agree with 'no turnout' policies! It isn't right to keep a horse stabled for long periods of time. So look for a yard that has 'all year round turnout'. The cost of renting accommodation for your horse varies greatly depending on where you live in the UK. Also, cost depends on the way in which you wish to keep your horse. ie do you want to look after him/her solely by yourself? Horsemart online has a good directory of livery yard classified adverts across the UK here: http://www.horsemart.co.uk/Type/Livery+Yard/Web/DisplayResultsMisc.asp

Your Own Land:

If you are fortunate enough to own land suitable to keep a horse, you will be spared livery costs. But there are many factors that need to be considered in order to make your land safe and habitable for horses. These include grass maintenance, fencing, adequate water supply and security. The recommended minimum acreage per horse is 1.5 acres. An effective pasture management must be employed so that the land does not become 'horse sick' The pasture must also be managed to avoid worm infestation. You must also provide a field shelter if there is no natural shelter against wind, rain and sun. GET RID of any barbed wire!! Replace it with something that ISN'T a danger to your horse, such as electric fencing or wooden post and rail fencing.

More info here:

Electric fencing:

http://www.rutland-electric-fencing.co.uk/PageProductList.aspx?SiteID=2&SelectedTab=TopTab_3_7_1&SiteCategoryID=25 http://www.electricfence-online.co.uk/shopscr198.html

Post and rail:

http://www.avsfencing.co.uk/product.asp?RETTRA=RET&ID=1&SUBID=5&PRODID=57&USERID= http://www.hurleyfencing.co.uk/index.htm

Livery Options:

Grass Only Livery: £10-£30 per week - depending on yard and location

DIY Livery: £20-£40 per week -depending on yard and location

A lot of yards offer DIY with the option of the yard manager/owner seeing to your horses' needs if it should arise for some reason that you can't sometimes. ie when you are ill, or for whatever reason. They charge extra per 'job' for this. DIY means just that. You are responsible for the twice (or more) daily duties of looking after your horse. DIY costs range from £20-£40 per week, depending on the area you live in the UK and the yard itself. Personally I have never paid more than £25.00 per week per horse for DIY livery, but this is based on the fact that, in the past, I have kept my horses at livery in the westcountry, where it tends to be cheaper.

Part Livery: £60-90 per week - depending on yard and location

This means that the yard owner or manager carries out the day to day chores of looking after your horse, with the exception of exercising him or her. This is an option that can be useful if you have work commitments or otherwise, but you still have the time to exercise your horse.

Full Livery: £70-£110 per week - depending on yard and location

As above, but your horse is exercised for you too.

Stabling: Make sure that all stabling is secure, large enough for your horse to turn around WITH enough room to spare. According to the size of the horse, the British Horse Society recommends a minimum stable size of 12ft x 12ft for horses, and preferably 12ft x 14ft for larger individuals. For ponies the recommended minimum dimensions should be 10ft x 10ft and 10ft x12ft for larger ponies. The height being between 9 and 11 feet, with a minimum of 3ft clearance of the roof. http://www.bhs.org.uk/

Bedding:

Adequate bedding must be supplied to provide warmth and protection, prevent injury and reduce the risk of the horse becoming 'cast' This is a horsey word for: '... A stabled horse who lies down just so or rolls in his stall runs the risk of becoming 'cast' in a position where he can't get his legs underneath himself to stand up again. Once caught on his back with his legs in the air or jammed against a wall, he's very likely to begin a desperate, thrashing effort to right himself. If he can't get himself out of his fix, he may exhaust or injure himself, though some cooler customers wait calmly to be rescued after realizing they're getting nowhere with their flailing.' (Go here for information on how to help a cast horse http://equisearch.com/horses_care/health/first_aid/eqcast631/)

Bedding must be non-toxic, provide effective draining (absorbent) and dust free. Straw is the cheapest at around £2-£4 per bale, but it is not necessarily the best. It isn't particularly absorbent and can be hard to muck out. There are also shavings, paper and many other alternatives on the market. For a 12 x 12ft stable, you will need approximately 5 bales of straw for a good, deep bed, or around 8 bales of shavings (shavings cost around £6 per bale) I love shavings, as I find them easy to muck out, and very absorbent.

How you keep your horse's bed (The mucky bit!)

You can either muck out your horse fully every day, removing all the muck. Or you can use what's called the 'deep litter' system. Personally I find the 'deep litter' system just an acceptable way, in the horsey world, of saying 'I can't be bothered to muck out every day'. Sorry, but it really isn't pleasant. The deep litter system is where you just take out the poo every day, and leave the wet yucky stuff underneath. And just adding fresh bedding on top of the bed every day. I think it is far nicer for your horse to not be lying around in his own urine smelling stable. So whilst it might be time consuming to muck out fully every day, your horse will thank you for it. Actually, he won't thank you, he'll probably just poo on the lovely new bed you just made for him, as soon as he steps foot on it, but you'll feel better about how lovely and clean it is every day!

Feed and Forage:

Feeding requirements will vary depending on the age, type, temperament and size of horse, and also on the amount of exercise you wish to do with the horse (if the horse can be ridden) Horses will require grass with forage (hay).

Hay

Hay should provide the largest amount of your horses diet, and should be supplemented, during the time your horse is out in the field over the winter months. This is because grass loses much of its nutritional value during winter. The average horse will eat approximately 3-4 bales of hay per week, and the average pony will eat 2-3 bales of hay per week. Hay currently costs between £2-£4 per week. Make sure the bales you buy are clean, dry and sweet smelling. Watch out for mould!!!!

Feed concentrates again vary on the specific horse and requirements. As a rule of thumb-Keep it simple!! Do not over or under feed. Dengie feeds has a brilliant feeding advice helpline, open daily. They provide excellent advice on feeding concentrates, they're very helpful and will even draw up a personal feeding plan for your horse which they will send you at no cost. Fab! Here's their number: 0845 345 5115 Dengie Feeds: http://www.dengie.com

Based on my own ponies, they get through roughly one bag of feed per four weeks, per pony. Most feeds are around £8 per bag. Just to give you an idea! But remember, these are PONIES, 14.hh and 13.1hh, horses need big horses food!

Vet Fees:

How much will that cost? Your horse's vaccinations (flu and tetanus) will cost around £50 (this is approximate) plus a £30-50 call out fee) As for other costs....Well, how long is a piece of string? - I know that's not very helpful, but the amount you will need to pay for vet visit depends on what the vet finds when he examines your horse. What you can be sure of though, is that owning a horse requires ongoing financial commitment. Routine treatments have to be undertaken, this should include bi-annual tetanus and annual equine influenza vaccinations. More on vaccinations here: http://www.equine-vet.co.uk/faq.htm

Insurance:

We highly recommend that you insure your horse to cover the possibility of public liability and veterinary fees http://www.nfumutual.co.uk/you/horse-insurance/index.htm

Farrier/ Blacksmith:

Every horse/ pony/ donkey's feet MUST be trimmed by a farrier at every 4-6 weeks. Trimming costs around £20-££25. If your horse has shoes, it will cost around £45-60 for shoes to either be replaced (if not too worn) or refitted. We cannot over-emphasise the importance of foot care. It is something that just HAS TO BE DONE REGULARLY. If it isn't, your horse or pony will suffer horrific foot problems!!! SEE HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOOF CARE: http://www.horseridinglesson.co.uk/HoofCare.html

Worming:

Another extremely important part of horse health care, and again, we need to emphasise how important worming is! Worms can affect all types of horses and ponies whether stabled or at grass. If they are not controlled they can cause weight loss, colic (see 'horse ailments' below) and in severe cases - death. Please seek advice for a worming plan for your horse!!

Increasing numbers of horses are kept on smaller areas and many paddocks are over-grazed which can in itself lead to a serious worm problem - more and more worm eggs are passed out in the droppings on to the pasture, contaminating the pasture, only to be eaten again. Pasture management plays a key part in worm control.....More here: http://www.wormers.co.uk

Equine Dentistry:

Every horse or pony needs to see the dentist, every six months, just like we do!

How often does my horse or pony need dental check ups?

Dental care should start as a yearling to remove sharp edges and identify any future problems. After the first visit by a Dental Technician, it is recommended that two visits per year be scheduled; Your Equine Dental Technician will advise you.

What are the signs that my horse needs dental attention?

• Your horse starts to change their eating habits.
• The horse may dribble feed, wash feed in the water bucket, hold the head to the side or not eat at all.
• It's breath might be unpleasant and may have a swollen face.
• The horse may roll the food into a ball and drop it on the ground, this is quidding.

Why do horse or pony teeth get sharp?

The upper jaw is wider than the lower jaw and allows the jaw to move in a circular motion. This can lead to sharp edges on the outside of the upper cheek teeth. Horses diets have changed over the years and can lead to dental problems.

Will my horse be better to ride?

Horses can become head shy and develop head tossing, rear or be generally unsettled and not perform well. Bad habits can develop and may be difficult to break, sometimes re-schooling may be needed.

To find an equine dental technician in your area, please see here: http://www.equinedentistry.org.uk

Other things your horse will need:

Grooming Kit and First Aid Kit:

Grooming kit: From Robinsons Online country catelogue: Ranges in price from around £10.00 - £54.00 First Aid kit: £20.00 (but will need to be added to as and when ailments arise!) http://www.robinsons-uk.com

Horse Rugs:

The price of rugs is dependent on the size and height of your horse. Please see here: http://www.robinsons-uk.com/products/ProductList.asp?topGroupCode=003&parentGroupCode=0302

For some horses, you will need more rugs than you have clothes! (it seems!) If you have a wooly native pony, it is very unlikely that you will need such an extensive array of rugs, but the more thinner coated 'posh' horses will require more rugs.

You will need (at least):

• Winter turn-out rug (light weight, medium weight and heavy weight)
• Stable rug (lightweight, medium weight and heavy weight)
• Sweat sheeets
• Summer sheets
• Under rugs
• Fleeces and coolers

Boots and Bandages: Please see here: http://www.robinsons-uk.com/products/ProductList.asp?topGroupCode=003&ParentGroupCode=0304

• Bandages (a MUST have!)
• Brushing boots
• Hoof, fetlock and knee boots
• Medical
• Travel boots

Headcollar and lead rope Note: we prefer halters though, and so do horses! Halters can be found here: http://www.getknottedropehalters.co.uk

Tack-saddle and bridle etc if you are going to be riding your horse

It's VERY important to have a correctly fitted saddle for your horse to prevent back problems, behavioural problems and lameness. Consult a saddle fitter before buying a saddle. A good saddle could cost anywhere upwards from £500.00 http://www.balanceinternational.com/saddles_consultants.asp

For back problems or any musculoskeletal problems, (if your horse's behaviour changes and the reason isn't apparent, ie illness or obvious injuries have been ruled out by a qualified vet) consult a McTimoney practioner. McTimoney http://www.natural-animal-health.co.uk/mctimoney.htm

Stable tools:

• Pitchfork
• Wheelbarrow
• Spade
• Brush
• Skip

See products here: http://www.robinsons-uk.com/products/ProductCategory.asp?topGroupCode=004

Horse Ailments:

There are just too many to list all of them here, we have listed information and advice on Laminitis and Colic, but for further advice on horse illness and ailments, please see links at the end of this section.

Laminitis:

Laminitis is a horrible disease, and one that I have personally experienced with one of my ponies. Laminitis is a condition caused by many triggering factors, but the main threat is too much rich grass or overeating:

Limiting the grass intake can be accomplished by using a grazing mask or muzzle or by restricting the area available for grazing.

This is a painful and debilitating condition. Prevention is always better than cure as, when not treated quickly or correctly, it can cause permanent damage, which may result in euthanasia. Horses in a 'fat body' condition are more prone to laminitis and similar metabolic disorders.

Signs of acute (sudden and severe) laminitis include:

• increased digital pulse in the lower limb
• lame with an inability or reluctance to walk or move
• lying down and displaying an unwillingness to get up
• rocking back onto heels when standing, limbs out stretched
• leaning back onto hind feet to relieve pressure from the front feet

Laminitis can be very serious and early veterinary attention is essential.

What to do if you think your horse may have laminitis:

• Call your veterinary surgeon
• He/ she will examine your animal and provide drugs such as ACP (acepromazine), Bute (phenylbutazone). He will probably fit frog supports to your horse's feet and advise you on diet and management.
• Remove the animal from the source of the problem, if it is at grass put him in a deeply bedded stable.
• If his stable is a long way from the field, trailer him home rather than making him walk
• The best bedding is deep shavings, at least 18 inches deep, covering the whole floor area
• Keep him quiet and encourage him to lie down.
• Do not feed him until the vet has examined him. The vet will recommend a forage diet, using one of the feeds with the Laminitis Trust Approval Mark with limited hay.
• Your horse will need to remain in the stable for 30 days after it is sound without painkillers.

Prevention of Laminitis

You can prevent laminitis by avoiding high risk situations. The following is a list of 'causes' or circumstances which we know commonly precede the onset of laminitis.

1. Obesity
2. Overeating on foods rich in carbohydrate or rapidly fermentable fibre i.e. cereals, coarse mixes, rapidly growing or fertilised grass
3. Any illness which involves a toxaemia. This may be a bacterial infection or following the ingestion of plant or chemical toxins.
4. Cushing's Disease. This is a condition which follows an abnormality affecting the pituitary gland in the horse's head. It results in the horse failing to shed its winter coat. The coat becomes long and matted and eventually curly. The horse drinks and eats increased amounts of food while sweating excessively and losing weight. All Cushing's cases suffer laminitis.
5. Weight-bearing laminitis. When the horse is severely lame on one leg and has to put all his weight on the contra-lateral limb they often suffer from founder in the weightbearing limb. This is particularly common in hind feet.
6. Concussive laminitis (road founder). When horses are subjected to fast or prolonged work on hard surfaces they may develop laminitis as a result of trauma to the laminae, particularly if their horn quality is poor.
7. Hormonal problems. Animals which are "good doers" may be hypothyroid or have an abnormal peripheral cortisol enzyme system. The latter condition, recently described has been called obesity related laminitis or peripheral Cushing's disease. Others develop laminitis when they are in season.
8. Cold weather. A few horses show laminitis during cold weather, fitting warm leg wraps during cold snaps prevents the problem in most cases.
9. Stress. Worming, vaccination, traveling or separation from a "friend" can trigger an attack of laminitis.
10. Drug induced laminitis. Although some wormers can precipitate laminitis, the most common group of drugs which cause laminitis are the corticosteroids. Even injecting short acting corticosteroids into joints can cause severe laminitis.

Overeating / Obesity are the most common high risk situations which lead to laminitis. The secret to avoiding laminitis in this situation is not to turn the horse out whilst he is fatter than condition score 3. This means he should not have a fat depot along his crest or at the tail head, around the sheath or udder or over the loins. You should be able to feel his ribs easily by running your hand along his side yet you should not be able to see his ribs.

Limiting the grass intake can be accomplished by using a grazing mask or muzzle or by restricting the area available for grazing. http://www.laminitis.org/

Colic:

Colic is the term used to describe abdominal pain. It can indicate a problem with the gut itself or other organs within the abdomen. There are many causes of colic, ranging from simple indigestion to a serious twisted gut. In all cases of suspected colic, immediate veterinary advice should be sought.

Signs of colic include:

• a restless horse, pawing at the ground or attempting to roll excessively
• unexplained sweating and rapid or laboured breathing
• unusually irritable, looking at or attempting to kick its stomach
• stretching as if to urinate or attempting to pass dung without result
• elevated pulse rate and temperature

What to do if you think your horse may have colic:

Whilst waiting for your vet to arrive - or give initial advice over the phone - here are some tips:

• Keep your horse stabled with lots of bedding, and keep calm!
• Should the horse be lying down remove anything which might harm it if were to roll.
• If the horse does try to roll violently try moving it to a field without fences and ditches.
• Don't offer food.
• Don't give colic drenches - they might go down the wrong way.

Prevention of Colic:

• Fresh Water - make sure there is plenty available, and that it is not liable to freeze. You may have to invest in a trough heater or arrange to break the ice regularly. Remember, winter roughages generally contain less than 20% moisture whereas summer and spring grass contains 75% or more. Without sufficient liquid the food being processed becomes dry and prohibits easy bowel movement i.e. peristaltic action. Don't, however, give a horse anything but small amounts of warm water after it gets overheated.
• Routine - have a regular exercise and feeding schedule.
• Feed your horse mainly roughage and only a little grain or energy-rich supplement and divide the daily feed in to two or more rations. Twice as much energy should come from the hay or forage than from supplements.
• Don't put hay or other feedstuffs on the ground, especially where the soil is sandy; and check regularly for twine, plastic bags and other human detritus which might be ingested by your horse.
• Worming - have a regular programme.
• Keep stress to a minimum by eliminating the need for transportation or shows.
• Proneness to constipation. In consultation with your vet, use Psyllium Husks regularly in the feed.
• http://www.hintsandthings.co.uk/kennel/Horse%20Colic%20free%20online%20vet%20advice.htm

Natural horsemanship Links: The horse gurus!

http://www.parelli.com
http://www.richard-maxwell.com

More Equestrian Links

British Horse Society http://www.bhs.org.uk/
Information and advice on worming your horse http://www.wormers.co.uk/
The Farriers Registration Council http://www.farrier-reg.gov.uk/
Hoofcare advice http://www.horseridinglesson.co.uk/HoofCare.html
Feeding advice http://www.dengie.com/
Worming advice http://www.wormers.co.uk/
Bedding supplies and advice http://www.hayandstraw.co.uk/shavings.html
Laminitis help and advice http://www.laminitis.org/
Colic help and advice http://www.hintsandthings.co.uk/kennel/Horse%20Colic%20free%20online%20vet%20advice.htm
Insurance: http://www.nfumutual.co.uk/you/horse-insurance/index.htm
Horse classifieds: http://www.horsemart.co.uk/
Horse supplies: http://www.robinsons-uk.com/
Natural rope halters: http://www.getknottedropehalters.co.uk/
Saddle fitting advice: http://www.balanceinternational.com/saddles_consultants.asp
McTimoney Chiropracters: http://www.natural-animal-health.co.uk/mctimoney.htm
Horse Loan agreement sample: http://www.bhs.org.uk/Content/search.asp

Some of the information collected on this web page has been sourced from the above websites.